Vinyl Liners
 
A vinyl liner pool has a custom made sheet of vinyl between the water and the pool structure. This is in contrast to a gunite or shotcrete pool which uses plaster as its waterproofing membrane. Vinyl liners typically lock their top edge, called a bead, into a track located on the bottom of the coping, which is at deck level. Underneath the liner is a sand or cementitious floor, specified in dimension to the "cut" of the liner that is to be used. The floors come up to meet the walls, which are commonly 3 ft by 8 ft panels made of galvanized steel or thermoplastic. These walls are supported from behind so that they won't bow out against the weight of the water. All of the wall panels are secured together to make up the perimeter shape of the pool. For this reason, there are some limitations to the possible shapes of a vinyl liner pool.
 
Vinyl liner pool sales seem to be regional. Many areas of the country seem to have nothing but vinyl liner pools, whereas in other areas you'd be hard pressed to find even one. In our Washington area, there is a nice mix of vinyl and gunite pool builders to meet consumer demand for either products. I won't get into a large discussion on vinyl versus gunite, however, generally speaking, the vinyl liner pool can be built cheaper than the gunite (concrete) version. If you already own a vinyl pool; here are some service tips from our vinyl help file:
 
Vinyl Liner Repair
 
Liner bead coming out of the track?
 
Liners are meant to fit tightly into the shape of the pool. If the liner was installed slightly off center, or if the liner is too large or too small for the pool's shape, you might experience the bead popping out of the track.
 
With the use of a heat gun or blow dryer and a lot of elbow grease (eat your wheaties), the liner can be stretched and locked back into the track. I was also informed by a pool tech recently that boiling hot water works well when you need to stretch a liner.  If this is a continuing problem, the use of liner lock can help in keeping the bead in the track. It is best to consult a professional for this problem, to avoid over stretching or melting the liner. I also caution about the use of electrical equipment (heat gun) around water (pool).
 
It's usually a lot of pulling and pushing to get a liner back into the track. In some cases you'll need to lower the water level a foot or more if it is out very far. Better to put back in small areas than to wait until you have to lower the water. Use of a small hair dryer (blow dryer) can heat up the liner, making it more stretchable, and easier to get back into the track. Be careful, keep the dryer moving and not too close to the vinyl! I once heated a hole right through a brand new liner using this trick! Also, if you drop the dryer into the water, don't reach in to grab it, you could become electrocuted. When the liner is put back into the track (it can be exhausting work, I'm telling you) consider using liner lock, pennies or popsicle sticks to help hold it in the track.
 
Liner losing its color?
 
The original color of your liner will fade with the use of sanitizing chemicals and the effects of ol' Mr. Sun. Harsh chemicals and high concentrations of such are to be avoided. This will remove the plasticizers which give liners their resiliency, leading to brittle vinyl, which leads to new liners. The chemical makeup of modern vinyl allows manufacturers to create liners that are now much more durable and resistant to chemical, solar and algae problems.
 
 
Vinyl liner leaking?
 
Not an uncommon problem. Liners are typically manufactured in 20 mil thickness (28-30 mil option). Although resistant to punctures...it can happen, and will happen. Especially as the liner ages, losing its resiliency. If you are fortunate enough to see a small hole in the liner, simply patch it with a vinyl liner patch kit. If underwater, buy a "wet" patch kit. If the source of the leak isn't readily apparent, go to our section on Leak Detection.  
 
If you are adding more than one inch of water to your pool per week, discounting splashed-out and backwash waste water, you probably have a leak. Do not allow leaks to go unchecked. Leaks can washout supporting back fill behind the walls, corrode the walls, and may wash away sand on the floor, creating large sinkholes.
 
It is not advised to drain your vinyl liner pool, or allow it to leak out below the level of the walls. The water in the pool holds the liner tightly against the walls and floor. If the water is removed, the liner must be reset with a vacuum to suck the liner into place while filling. Otherwise, large wrinkles may appear when filling a loose fitting liner. In addition, an empty liner pool may allow rain water to seep in under the walls, washing away and destroying the specifically contoured shape of the floor. There also exists the risk of a wall collapsing or caving in. Consult a professional for assistance in these areas.
 
Never add undiluted granular chemicals, specifically pH de-creaser and Calcium Hypochlorite (shock) directly to the pool. These particles will settle to the bottom, "bleach" the vinyl, and compromise it's strength and resiliency.
 
Resetting your vinyl liner: If the liner has been drained, or leaked out on it's own, it will need to be "sucked back" into place with a vacuum device to remove the air between the liner and the pool shell (walls/floor).
 
The vacuum will be in place until the water level is at a predetermined point on the wall. The vacuum is then removed, and the pool continues to fill. This is necessary to ensure proper fit, and reduce or eliminate wrinkles in the vinyl. Prices will vary on labor and trip costs involved, but expect a few hundred dollars when it's all said and done.
 
Vinyl liners are not limited in colors and patterns as they used to be. Changing this will dramatically improve the visual effect of your pool.  The cost of the liner will depend on it's shape, size, thickness, and pattern choice. As an example, a 17' x 35' oval, with a Rockcliffe print, 28 mil thickness, will cost in the neighborhood of $1200.00. 
 
In Ground Vinyl Liner Installation
 
The labor involved in replacing a vinyl liner begins with the measuring of your pool for the

Plaster Pools
 
Concrete pools are the oldest form of building pools. The process starts with digging a hole in the ground and lining the hole with rebar. Then the drains, skimmers, return lines, and in-floor cleaning system are set into place. After that, the pool is shot with gunite. Then, the tile and coping stones are set in place.  Finally, the pool is shot and troweled with plaster. Once the plaster is finished, the company usually starts filling the pool with water.
 
Once the pool is full, the system is started up and balanced with chemicals. This is the time that takes the most work, usually a lot of brushing and backwashing due to dusting from the new plaster.
 
Also called whitecoat or marcite, plaster is an age old process of finishing many structures. Used underwater, it provides the watertight seal that the more porous gunite or shotcrete beneath it cannot. Plaster finishes provide twenty years of service under ideal conditions, however, ours is rarely an ideal world. The plaster surface is meant to degrade slowly, eventually requiring a fresh coat.

 
Plaster has shading variations?

 Known as mottling, and distinct from surface stains and deposits, mottling may appear as grayish hued areas. Rarely do I see a plaster job that is white like milk. They're usually white like clouds. Being a natural product, mottling is inherent in any plaster job and should not be considered a defect. There has been much research on the subject in recent years, however no consensus has been reached on the causes and cure of mottling.
 
Plaster is stained?

Different from mottling, stains are usually localized and distinct in color from the plaster. Most stains are caused by heavy metal minerals coming out of solutions and depositing themselves on the nearest structure they find. They may also remain suspended in water, providing dramatic new color schemes. Below is a chart listing common metals found in pools, where they came from, and their identifying colors. 

Plaster has crystalline deposits?

 Your pool water has precipitated metallic salts out of solution. This will create areas of the pool which are extremely rough and scaly. There are several solutions to remove these deposits, including acid washing, sanding and the use of a calcium deposit dissolving chemical called HydroQuest.  

MetalSourcesColors

Calcium
Plaster, grout, mortar, cal-hypo chlorine shock
white crystals or precipitate

Cobalt
Fiberglass shells
red, blue, gray or black

Copper 
Copper algaecides, ionizers, corrosion of copper and brass pipes, fittings and heaters
blue, green & blue/green black, dark red or teal 

Iron
Well water, corrosion of iron pipe and fittings
dark red, brown, black, gray or green

Manganese
Well water
pink, red, black or red

 If any of the above causes apply to you, your pool should be using a sequestering agent which aids your water balance in preventing the metal from dropping out of solution and staining underwater surfaces. Most stains left by precipitated metals can be removed by one form or another. An acid wash every few years will keep a pool looking nice.
 

Want to increase the life of your plaster?
 
Barring problems in the mixing, application and curing processes, the pool owner, or service company controls its condition and life span. Keeping your water chemistry in balance and most importantly, preventing corrosive water environments of low pH and low alkalinity will reduce wear and tear.
 
Maintain your pH levels at between 7.4 - 7.8.
 
Alkalinity should be kept between 80 - 120 ppm. Lower levels may etch your plaster, which provides a safe harbor for dirt and algae to grow, isn't attractive and is rough to the touch.
 
Heavy metals cause stains.
 
Metallic salts cause scale. These salts are primarily forms of calcium and magnesium which can deposit on your plaster, pipes and equipment. They may arise from the use of calcium based sanitizers or the fill water may have high calcium hardness levels.
 
Keep your calcium hardness levels between 200 - 400 ppm.
 
A level that is above this may find it easy to precipitate out of solution. This is known as a scaling condition. Conversely, water with low levels of hardness will produce an aggressive condition. In aggressive conditions (soft water), the water will take the calcium it wants directly out of your plaster, resulting in plaster breakdown and bond failure.
 
Pool plaster is pitted or etched?
 
If your plaster has surface irregularities, which may take on a beige hue, you have what's commonly called etching. This etching can be caused by low pH or alkalinity; an acidic condition. It may begin within the plaster, from the original mix on application, or etching may start from the gunite side of the plaster and work itself from the outside in.
 
Pool plaster has large, dark areas?
 
You may be seeing the gunite or shotcrete beneath the plaster beginning to show through. You better start budgeting for that re-plaster.
 
Pool plaster has small cracks?
 
Known as crazing or checking, the tiny, barely visible cracks are usually caused by extreme temperature variations, especially during initial curing. These are not actually cracks, and pose no structural hazard or danger of leaking. Acid washing could remove the crazed layer. Larger cracks should be cut out in a butterfly or dovetail fashion with a 4" or 7" grinder, and filled with a plaster patch mix or a flexible sealant can be used where further movement is suspected.
 
Plaster has delaminated?
 
Known as bond failure, this will occur as areas where the plaster has popped off. Usually seen on re-plaster jobs, where the plaster to plaster bond may never be as strong as the original plaster to concrete bond. This is repaired with a plaster patch. Plaster normally does not delaminate from the gunite;  this bond failure can more easily occur, plaster to plaster. Chip away any loose material around the edge of the delaminated area. This will sometimes make the patch much bigger than the hole is to begin with. Chip & chisel to break up and rough up the surface, clean and brush on a bonding additive. Then pour in premixed white Portland cement and marble dust; 2:1. Use bonding additive (like Acryl 60) to mix the plaster with. Trowel smooth with a round ended trowel. Keep the patch from drying too quickly by doing this repair in the evening and covering with moist towels or burlap.
 
Plaster patching: The delaminated area is chipped outwards until good bond is found. The surface is roughened and plastered is troweled in place by hand. Cost depends on the size and location of the patch. Plaster patching material can be purchased at most pool stores. It is a mixture of white Portland cement and marble dust. A bonding additive such as Acryl 60 should be used when applying.
 
Re-plastering: The pool is drained and acid etched several times. Chipping and cutting around all fittings and under the tile allows the new coat to be feathered. A scratch coat is applied first, followed by a finish coat. The pool is filled immediately; the plaster cures underwater. The surface must then be brushed twice daily, with vacuuming and continuous filtering to remove the plaster dust. Cost for a re-plaster is based on surface square footage. Expect $2,500 - $4,000.
 
Once upon a time, plasterers would plaster a pool in any color, as long as it was white. Black or gray plaster is now becoming more common, and other colored additives can produce varied color effects. Any colored plaster will show more mottling than white pools, however. If you plaster in any color other than white, expect streaking and uneven hues. Don't expect flat black color, for example.
 
Pool painting: Before plastering became popular, pool shells were painted. These were low grade paints that barely lasted one season. The annual drain & paint was gladly given up when plaster became popular. The underwater epoxies used today offer a 7 year life span for about half the cost of re-plastering. Paint adheres very well to properly prepped plaster, and offers a wide variety of colors and graphic capabilities. Pool painting is a second class choice to re-plastering. It may be half the cost, but will last only half as long (at best). If you start painting, you keep painting, unless you sandblast it off to allow re-plastering. We tend to discourage our customers from painting a pool. A few dollars saved in the short run will cost more in the long run.
 
Pool painting: The pool is drained and degreased. It is then acid etched and degreased again. After drying, a primer coat is applied, followed by two coats of the chosen color(s). Again with the drying, and the pool is filled. Price will vary according to size and prep factors. Expect $1,900 - $2,800. Pool artwork varies.
 
Want to Re-plaster the pool yourself?
 
I would discourage this. Plastering is nothing short of an art and science. Experienced plasterers know how to get the mix right, with numerous variables that can affect the finished product. They also work in a team of 4 - 6 workers, to get it up before it sets (and cracks). Small patches? OK, but re-plastering the entire pool? I would leave that to plasterers. If YOU prep the pool for plaster, however, you could save 25% or so on the job.
 
What is the procedure for starting up a freshly plastered pool?
 
There are basically two methods, chlorine start, or acid start. I do the acid start which eliminates the brushing and filtering of plaster dust. The idea is to drop the Total Alkalinity level to zero, and then rebuild it with the carbonates that are contained in the plaster dust.
 
Here's how I do it. As the pool is filling, immediately after plastering, add 1 gallon of muriatic acid directly to the water (don't splash it on the bare plaster) per 5,000 gallons of fill water. With a watch, time the amount of time it takes to fill up a 1 gallon or 5 gallon bucket with the hose(s) used to fill up the pool. Do the math to determine how many gallons are added every hour. Divide 5,000 by the number of gallons coming out of your hose(s) per hour, and you will know how long it takes to fill 5,000 gallons from the hoses.
 
When the pool is full, test the Total Alkalinity. It should be zero. Then test the pH, and do a base demand test to determine how much pH increaser to add. Add up to 6 lbs of pH increaser at a time, brushing the pool to distribute fully. Wait a few hours in between 6 lb additions. When all of the pH increaser is added, recheck pH and Total Alkalinity. Add additional increasers if needed.
 
Check Calcium Hardness levels. If below 180 ppm, add Calcium Chloride in dissolved form to bring the levels up. Brush pool after any addition of chemicals. When pH, Alkalinity and Calcium levels are balanced, slowly begin to chlorinate the pool. Do not shock the pool for a week or so. Leave the pool filter (and heater, and pool cleaner) off until the chemistry is balanced. Brush frequently to distribute chemicals added.